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APRIL 22, 2021                                                                                    23





        Fashion Scoops





        Collar Me        than via wholesale in order to   occasion, the Lebanese designer   and well-being for vulnerable
                         offer more accessible prices.
                                                           girls in Lebanon.”
                                          is supporting a charitable cause
                                                            Many children in Lebanon are
        Beautiful        Orders can be placed online at   close to his heart.  facing a dire situation due to a
                         gmbhgmbh.eu from April 23 to
                                           Le Parfum, launched in 2011,
        They’re off the shoulder — but   May 6, or the old-school way, by   gleaned inspiration from one of   confluence of factors, including
                         requesting a line sheet.          the coronavirus pandemic, the
        not off the rack: Berlin-based   WWD said the daring,   Saab’s memories from childhood:
        men’s brand GmbH is delving       the scent of flowers from his   Beirut port explosions and the
        into demi-couture by offering   shoulder-baring looks “unlocked   family’s Mediterranean garden.  difficult economic landscape.
                         the sensual potential of the       “I admire UNICEF’s mission in
        made-to-order variations of the   neckline” and the stole-like fabric   “My childhood home was
        collarbone-revealing coats and    surrounded by orange blossom,   supporting the most vulnerable
        jackets that capped off its fall   panels hugging the chest “gave   and when the wind blew, even   clusters and providing a solid
                         an armor-like quality to their
        2021 show.       tailored coats and jackets.”  slightly, it carried with it the   platform to the youth,” said Saab.
         Design duo Benjamin Huseby       essence of its notes,” said Saab   “During these difficult times and
                         Couture for men is flourishing,   in this competitive world, we
        and Serhat Isik characterized the   with Valentino introducing high-  in a statement.
        venture as a way to exalt tailoring   “What I found fascinating   should raise resilient children to
        tradition and skill, since Isik cuts   fashion looks for men in its recent   working for Elie Saab was the   be prepared for a brighter future.
                         spring collection, and Balenciaga
        all GmbH patterns himself.  poised to introduce couture for   idea of interpreting light. I did   “By giving them the time
         The shawl constructions          not have any specific images   and opportunities they need,
                         men in July when it is slated to   teaching them the right skills
        were inspired by mid-century   return to the Paris calendar after   in mind, just sensations: the
        haute couture and hover just      whiteness of the sun at its   and empowering them, they
        past the shoulders thanks   a 53-year absence.    zenith, radiant femininity, a   will cultivate good qualities and
                         — MILES SOCHA
        to built-in, adjustable and       modern interpretation of   secure better lives,” he continued.
                                                           “Sometimes, a rough childhood
        traditionally boned corsets that   voluptuousness,” said master
        hold the garments in place.   Perfume   perfumer Francis Kurkdjian.  can mold children into leaders
        The coats and jackets can be       Saab wishes to pay homage   with big inspirational life lessons.”
        ordered plain or with faux-fur   With a   to the main inspiration for   Model Cindy Bruna features
        stoles that are detachable.       Le Parfum: his hometown of   in the Elie Saab Le Parfum
         The tailoring is done two hours   Cause   Beirut. So a portion of the   advertisement. The designer’s
        from GmbH’s Berlin studio and     proceeds from the sale of the   fragrance and cosmetics   The “Euphoria”
        then finished in-house. Huseby   Elie Saab’s first fragrance, Le   fragrance will be donated this   business is licensed to Brands   season one book set.
                                                           Beyond Beauty. — JENNIFER WEIL
        and Isik decided to sell these   Parfum, fetes its 10th anniversary   year to a UNICEF program
        items direct to consumers rather   this year. And to help mark the   called “Integrated education
                                                           Power             Véronique Beaumont,   releasing a boxed set of eight
                                             A Barbie look by Esmod        managing director of the school,   books that provide a new look at
                                                           Dressing        proposals and the innovative,
                                              student Fanny Bonnet.        lauded the diversity of the   the show’s first season.
                                                                           empowering looks. Esmod offers   The holographic-bound books
                                                           Famous designers aren’t the      include interviews and Q&As with
                                                           only ones who get to officially   Fashion Business, Fashion   cast members like Zendaya and
                                                                           Design and International Luxury
                                                           dress Barbie and Ken: Eighty     Barbie Ferreira, and behind-the-
                                                           students at French fashion   Management programs, and   camera talent like show creator
                                                           school Esmod were invited to   its famous alumni include   Sam Levinson, costume designer
                                                           compete for the best outfit.  Olivier Rousteing, Simon Porte   Heidi Bivens and makeup artist
                                                            Twenty winners were recently   Jacquemus, Reem Acra, Alexandre   Doniella Davy, whose neon
                                                                           Vauthier and Damir Doma.
                                                           selected by a jury consisting    and jeweled looks for the show
                                                           of fashion journalists, Mattel   California-based Mattel   inspired beauty trends on the
                                                           France employees, Esmod reps   began collaborating with   runway for spring 2020.
                                                           and executives from Dior, Celine   fashion designers on limited-  “Rather than focusing on
                                                           and Lacoste.    edition Barbies in the ‘80s.   typical character archetypes,
                                                                           Recent projects include a trio
                                                            The top prize went to Éloïse    I sunk my teeth into the
                                                           Berche for her period-influenced,   of collectible looks by Berluti to   psychological nuances that
                                                           boyish ensemble of culottes,   mark Ken’s 60th birthday, and   Sam wrote into the characters’
                                                                           what was billed as the first CGI
                                                           puffy blouse and suspenders      backstories. None of the ‘Euphoria’
                                                           with pagoda shoulder extensions.   Mattel dolls by Rousteing for   characters are ‘one-note,’ so their
                                                           The look by second-prize winner   Balmain, who put both Barbie and   makeup couldn’t be, either,” writes
                                                           Camille Despinasse was a little   Ken in pink pagoda-shouldered   Davy in her essay for the book.
                                                                           suits. — M.S.
                                                           bit country — a frothy, pink linen   The pages also include
                                                           dress and homespun sweater —     behind-the-scenes photographs,
                                                           while third-place winner Agathe   Stirring   drawings from actor Hunter
                                                           Garnier’s look was a little bit rock   Schafer’s sketchbook, and the
                                                           ‘n’ roll: a black tailcoat with golden   Euphoria  screenplay for each episode. The
                                                           details over slim trousers.      set is priced at $98 and will go on
                                                            Kim Culmone, vice president   As “Euphoria” fans continue   sale April 27 at A24’s online shop.
                                                           of design at Mattel Inc., which   to anticipate the show’s second   The release comes several
                                                           created Barbie in 1959, awarded   season — production was   months after HBO released two
                                                           Fanny Bonnet the Barbie Style   delayed due to COVID-19 filming   “bridge” episodes for the series
                                                           award for her “goddess warrior”   restrictions — A24 is bridging   with leads Zendaya and Schafer,
                                                           look: a filmy, harness-like coat   the gap with a new release. The   “Trouble Don’t Last Always” and
                                                           trailing over a velvet tube dress   company, also behind films like   “F--k Anyone Who’s Not a Sea
                                                           and thigh boots.  “Minari” and “Uncut Gems,” is   Blob.” — KRISTEN TAUER
        Memo Pad
                         plastic waste ever produced                       of Allure. “So we felt we needed   way we talk about aging. I think
        Banned           has actually been turned into                     to take a stand on the language   we’re kind of at that place with
                         something that was then able to                   we were going to use.…I hope   sustainability now that changing
        Buzzwords        be used again.                                    everyone will start thinking   the way we think about it, part of
                                                                           more about these terms as
                                                                                            that is just changing the way we
      Barbie photograph by Pierre-Olivier/The Faubourg  is hoping the beauty industry will   “eco-friendly,” “planet-friendly”   product that has been shown   around that in a lot of cases   similar in 2017 when it removed   buzzwords around ingredients.
                          Also banned from the pages
                         of the glossy magazine when it
                                                                                            talk about it,” she added.
                                                                           the consumer becomes more
        For Earth Day, Allure magazine
                                                                           educated and we’re all voting with
                                                                                              After packaging, Allure editors
                         comes to describing packaging
        is rethinking the terminology it
                         are the terms “earth-friendly,”
                                                                                            plan to tackle sustainability
                                                                           our dollars.”
        uses around sustainability and
                                                                             The brand did something
                                                                                              As first reported by WWD,
                         and “biodegradable.” Allure
                                          Allure May covers
        follow suit.
                         explained that while the
         The Condé Nast-owned brand
                                                                                            Allure is also preparing to open its
                                                                           the term “antiaging” from
                                                                                            first physical retail store in New
                         latter defines a substance or
        is coming out with a sustainability
                                                                           its lexicon as “it felt like this
                         object that is capable of being
                                                                                            York City’s SoHo neighborhood
                                                                           antiquated notion that aging
        pledge where it plans to choose
                                                           we’ve seen from the reporting
                                          to break down in a residential
                                                                           is something we need to fight
                                          composter in about 90 days,
                         decomposed by bacteria or
        its words carefully when reporting
                                                           we’ve done on sustainability in
                                                                                            during the fall, through a licensing
                                          creating zero soil toxicity in the
                                                           the last couple of years they just
                                                                           and that aging is a problem,”
        on “sustainable” packaging.
                         other living organisms, there is
                                                                                            partnership with Stôur Group.
                                                                           according to Bailly.
                                                           don’t mean that much, and I think
                         no specific time limit and most
                                                                                            The 2,900-square-foot Lafayette
                                          process, while “green” will be
         That includes never referring
                                                           sometimes they make us feel
                                                                             “I know Michelle [Lee, editor in
        to any type of plastic as
                                                                                            Street store will be set over two
                         landfills don’t have enough
                                          used only to describe something
                                                                                            floors and will feature around 300
        “recyclable” since — while many
                         oxygen to get the job done.
                                                           like we’re taking more dramatic
                                          that is literally verdant in color.
                                                                           chief of Allure] said at the time
                                                                                            makeup, hair care and skin care
                                                           action than we are,” said Jenny
                                           “There’s just so many
                          Elsewhere, “compostable”
        plastics are capable of being
                                                                           changing the way we think about
                                                                                            products. — KATHRYN HOPKINS
                                          buzzwords that are being thrown
                                                                           aging starts with changing the
                                                           Bailly, executive beauty director
                         will only be used to describe a
        recycled — only 9 percent of all
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